nitePhoto Gallery
FOM Specializing in Night Walleye Fishing
Are you afraid of the DARK or
Things that "splash" in the night?
Things that "splash" in the night?
Treat yourself to the Trip of a lifetime.
Our rates and times are shown at the bottom of this tutorial. Night fishing is all together different than day fishing and will give you a serious adrenalin rush!
Our venue for this topic is the South shore of Lake Erie.
This tutorial is to inform and help others through the learning curve for trolling walleye after dark and is NOT complete.
Huge trophy fish are readily caught in the spring and fall.
The spring night trophy season normally begins around the second week of April and lasts until the end of June.
The fall night trophy season normally begins mid October and ends around Christmas.
Huge trophy fish are readily caught in the spring and fall.
The spring night trophy season normally begins around the second week of April and lasts until the end of June.
The fall night trophy season normally begins mid October and ends around Christmas.
Night trolling for walleye is fun and exciting.
But before we can have fun, we must be set up properly and understand every procedure thoroughly.
Disclaimer:
The statements made on the topic of Night Fishing here are of my opinion only and from my experiences at night for over 45 years on the Great Lakes and Open Ocean.
The advice given is to be heeded by all means with ultimate respect for the Lake, Night, conditions, equipment and murphys law.
If I ever catch that guy, I will definitely put him in Davy Jones Locker.
I give these recommendations accordingly and cannot stress enough about the dangers of night.
By all means, you must be much more responsible than you think you are normally.
I highly recommend newcomers to go on a Charter or out with another night experienced person a few times before attempting it on your own.
The dangers at night are multi-fold increased, multiplies many unforeseen dangers and is not for the faint of heart.
Most generally you will not have any help out there at night. With that said, enjoy the read.
There are many basics necessary to become successful at trolling in itself, besides at night.
Many people get disorientated at dark on the water and don't know how to get home.
No, your electronics are not to be solely relied on, they may go out.
I will repeat this many times, YOU MUST ASK YOURSELF constantly:
Disclaimer:
The statements made on the topic of Night Fishing here are of my opinion only and from my experiences at night for over 45 years on the Great Lakes and Open Ocean.
The advice given is to be heeded by all means with ultimate respect for the Lake, Night, conditions, equipment and murphys law.
If I ever catch that guy, I will definitely put him in Davy Jones Locker.
I give these recommendations accordingly and cannot stress enough about the dangers of night.
By all means, you must be much more responsible than you think you are normally.
I highly recommend newcomers to go on a Charter or out with another night experienced person a few times before attempting it on your own.
The dangers at night are multi-fold increased, multiplies many unforeseen dangers and is not for the faint of heart.
Most generally you will not have any help out there at night. With that said, enjoy the read.
There are many basics necessary to become successful at trolling in itself, besides at night.
Many people get disorientated at dark on the water and don't know how to get home.
No, your electronics are not to be solely relied on, they may go out.
I will repeat this many times, YOU MUST ASK YOURSELF constantly:
"Where am I?"
In the spring and fall when the water temperatures are in the 40 and 50 degree mark, hypothermia can and will set in very fast.
So you think you can handle the conditions and dark cold of the Nite bite.
Lets have a look at it:
Every night is different, and yes, every night holds a surprise in the dark!
Before even thinking about going, you need a check list and to completely rig a safe-size boat and specifically organize your vessel properly and systematically.
You must take into account wave conditions in relation to the boat, incoming weather and be prepared for any night problems that can arise when Mr. Murphy shows up.
Because the walleyes are in so close during the spring and fall seasons, most of the time you can catch them right against the shoreline, breakwalls and whatever structure you have available.
There should be plenty fishing days for any boat during the months that the spring and fall seasons have to offer.
Any method of propulsion will work, outboards, I/O, electric.
Everything must have its proper place and be kept there.
Lines, rods, lures, nets, coolers, safety gear, emergency equipment, etc.
You must be familiar with and have local knowledge of the area you are boating.
You must have good batteries.
More than one. If you have a weak battery it will die.
If you snag yourself with a treble it will be deep with possible multiple punctures.
Before even thinking about going, you need a check list and to completely rig a safe-size boat and specifically organize your vessel properly and systematically.
You must take into account wave conditions in relation to the boat, incoming weather and be prepared for any night problems that can arise when Mr. Murphy shows up.
Because the walleyes are in so close during the spring and fall seasons, most of the time you can catch them right against the shoreline, breakwalls and whatever structure you have available.
There should be plenty fishing days for any boat during the months that the spring and fall seasons have to offer.
Any method of propulsion will work, outboards, I/O, electric.
Everything must have its proper place and be kept there.
Lines, rods, lures, nets, coolers, safety gear, emergency equipment, etc.
Nothing can be loose or laying around on the deck.
Leave the dog at home.
You must be familiar with and have local knowledge of the area you are boating.
You must have good batteries.
More than one. If you have a weak battery it will die.
If you snag yourself with a treble it will be deep with possible multiple punctures.
It is no place for buffoons, stumble bunnies or the semi skilled weekend angler.
We knew a acqaintance that brought the dog and ended up with two trebles in his nose and the other one in the masters hand all at the same time. Imagine that in the dark and elements.
Leave the rookies at home on your maiden voyage, and again, including the dog.
Know all your limitations, your passengers limitations and the limitations of your vessel and equipment. Your lives depend on it.
Just a few things:
1. You must know the Colregs. You must have a look out at all times.2. You must have all required safety equipment.
3. Life Jackets should be worn.
4. You need to know you are charging.
5. You must have all working navigational lights.
6. (I probably forgot something!)
7. Hand and deck lights must be available.
8. A chart plotter is a big bonus for working contour breaks and navigation.
9. A good fish finder is a must.
10. A good VHF radio is a must.
11. A compass is a must.
12. A set of drift socks is a must.
13. Proper rod holders.
14. A hardtop or bimini and side curtains will help extremely.
15. Extra fuel filters and other motor items.
16. You must have a working knowledge for running in line boards.
17. You must know boat maneuverability with the boards.
18. Take more than one net.
19. Have plenty of fuel
20. You must know where you are at all times.
Since you'll be fishing at night, many extra safety concerns must be in place.
If you're fishing a location for the first time, it is wise to be on the water during day light hours and familiarize yourself with the area, aids and landmarks.
Contact local bait shops, get local knowledge, the up to date information and advice is priceless.
List of additional dangers:
The gales of November.
Batteries could go dead.
Objects are much closer than they seem at night.
Things and places look different at night.
Another boat may not have lights on or a burned out one.
Another boat might not be watching where he is going.
Another boat might troll too close and cross your lines.
A storm can sneak in on you before you know it.
Fog can sneak in on you before you know it.
Snow, white outs come up fast.
An unseen freighter wake can sneak up on you and ruin your evening.
Unknown underwater objects could ruin your evening.
Hitting an unseen object could ruin your evening.
Getting tangled in the prop could ruin your evening.
A clogged bilge pump could ruin your evening.
Unhooking a fish flopping in the dark can ruin your evening.
Unattended autopilot can be disastrous.
Did I mention you can lose all visibility?
Batteries could go dead.
Objects are much closer than they seem at night.
Things and places look different at night.
Another boat may not have lights on or a burned out one.
Another boat might not be watching where he is going.
Another boat might troll too close and cross your lines.
A storm can sneak in on you before you know it.
Fog can sneak in on you before you know it.
Snow, white outs come up fast.
An unseen freighter wake can sneak up on you and ruin your evening.
Unknown underwater objects could ruin your evening.
Hitting an unseen object could ruin your evening.
Getting tangled in the prop could ruin your evening.
A clogged bilge pump could ruin your evening.
Unhooking a fish flopping in the dark can ruin your evening.
Unattended autopilot can be disastrous.
Did I mention you can lose all visibility?
Items needed:
Proper rods and reels spooled correctly on calibrated line counters.Cell phone and charger, rubber bands, snap swivels, cross locks, pre-made leaders, snap weights, inline planer boards, 2 nets, glow sticks, proper rain gear and clothing, a headlamp and gloves.
Rod Holders.
A good quality rod holder should be able to be adjusted quick, easy, and in every possible direction with as few tools as possible, no tools is the ideal choice. The more tools needed for adjustment, the more hassles a rod holder will be. The more settings it can be adjusted on, the more versatile its uses.
When flat-lining, the rod holders should be placed towards the rear of the boat and set horizontally to the water out to the side. Having the rods horizontal to the water will increase the space between the two lines, and it will avoid catching your line in the prop.
When using in-line boards, the proper way to set them is more vertical, upright, so that the rods will stay in a more vertical position, they can be tilted outward from the boat to up to about 20 degrees. This is important when you run in-line boards. There has to be enough clearance between the rod holders so the reels don't catch to each other. Place the rod holders for the in-line boards more towards the midway of the boat, to keep the rear and as much of the sides of the boat clear for netting the fish, don't worry about the trolling bags, they will be tucked against the boat, out of the way enough not to cause any problems.
This setup can be applied to any size boat.
Trolling gear
Proper equipment to use for night trolling consists of 8' medium/heavy action trolling rod with line counter reels. Line counters are important because the depth the crank baits run at, depends on how much line you leave out. 10-12 pound test Monofilament fishing line or 10 pound diameter braided line.
When using the braided line, it is better to run 3 to 6 foot leaders.
It is best to attach a crank bait to the fishing line with a straight snap, while a spoon or a harness with a swivel.
In-line trolling boards for multiple lines are the larger 9" - 10" boards.
Some type of illuminating device for each one of your boards:
When using the braided line, it is better to run 3 to 6 foot leaders.
It is best to attach a crank bait to the fishing line with a straight snap, while a spoon or a harness with a swivel.
In-line trolling boards for multiple lines are the larger 9" - 10" boards.
Some type of illuminating device for each one of your boards:
Glow sticks, battery operated glow sticks, lighted bobber. Bobber lights all work with a little ingenuity attaching them to the boards.
Plenty of crank baits, in many different colors!
A Kicker?
If your boat is equipped with a large horsepower motor, it might be a good idea to run a kicker motor for trolling purposes. One of the advantages is lower gas consumption and ability to slow down better. Also if you are running a two-stroke for the big motor as I do, not having to deal with the fumes will be greatly appreciated.An Autopilot and GPS?
YES, it's definitely worth it! Maintaining your course is much easier with the autopilot.
Knowing your speed is CRUCIAL, and being able to come back on the fish is a MUST!
Fish-Finders?
A good fish finder with water speed and temperature is irreplaceable.
You need to know the water temperature, the depth the fish are at, and your Water Speed.
Although, most of the time you will guide your speed according to your GPS, many times when you run with a current, your water speed will be close to zero. This means you are not moving in relation to the water. In this case you will only "float" your baits, instead of dragging them through the water as they should be working.
You are using the boat to pull your baits through the water, versus casting and retrieving when you have a "feel" on how your bait is behaving. The only clue you have about how your baits are really moving is the correlation between your GPS speed (your speed in relation to the ground) and your water speed (your speed in relation to the water). Understanding and being able to work with this concept will be crucial in your success at trolling. A good way to learn this is to go to a river where there's a fair visible current.
Knowing your speed is CRUCIAL, and being able to come back on the fish is a MUST!
Fish-Finders?
A good fish finder with water speed and temperature is irreplaceable.
You need to know the water temperature, the depth the fish are at, and your Water Speed.
Although, most of the time you will guide your speed according to your GPS, many times when you run with a current, your water speed will be close to zero. This means you are not moving in relation to the water. In this case you will only "float" your baits, instead of dragging them through the water as they should be working.
You are using the boat to pull your baits through the water, versus casting and retrieving when you have a "feel" on how your bait is behaving. The only clue you have about how your baits are really moving is the correlation between your GPS speed (your speed in relation to the ground) and your water speed (your speed in relation to the water). Understanding and being able to work with this concept will be crucial in your success at trolling. A good way to learn this is to go to a river where there's a fair visible current.
Cast down stream and you'll see that you need a much slower retrieve to "make the lure work" upstream against the current then to "make it work" down stream, with the current.
Where, When and Why?
Lake Erie southern shore line.
You will be able to adopt these same ideas and techniques to many other places.
Night trolling is synonymous with in close fishing, within one mile from shore.
Good locations are everywhere you can find a public boat launch not far from some structure.
Look for uneven shore lines, points, small gulfs, rock break walls, river mouths, canals, reefs, sudden changes in shore line, sudden changes in bottom, beaches, warm water discharges from power plants, and so on.
Keep in mind that walleyes travel in schools, and that walleye ambush their prey.
Waiting around the corner, or in a drop off to attack from, it's not unusual behavior for the walleye. The walleye can see much better at night.
Night trolling is synonymous with in close fishing, within one mile from shore.
Good locations are everywhere you can find a public boat launch not far from some structure.
Look for uneven shore lines, points, small gulfs, rock break walls, river mouths, canals, reefs, sudden changes in shore line, sudden changes in bottom, beaches, warm water discharges from power plants, and so on.
Keep in mind that walleyes travel in schools, and that walleye ambush their prey.
Waiting around the corner, or in a drop off to attack from, it's not unusual behavior for the walleye. The walleye can see much better at night.
When it comes to walleye and feeding, there are two important characteristics that one must understand in order to become better at catching them, and they both deal with its eyes.
Location of the eyes
When you observe the head of a walleye you notice that its eyes are located on the top half and aim forward and upwards.
The walleyes use this to their advantage, and they will always attack from the bottom/rear of an unsuspecting prey, and angle from which the prey never sees them coming.
Many times at night you will see walleye roll or splash on top of the water.
That is a good sign, because those are feeding walleyes.
As they attack prey near the surface of the water, they grab and roll with it.
Whenever you see walleye roll, you always run your lures within the top three feet of the water!
What's most important to understand is that you must run your lures above the walleye!
Second, is the tapetum lucidum, which is a layer of reflective pigment covering walleyes' eyes that intensifies any light the retina receives.
This provides the walleye with another advantage, it can see like a cat very well in low light situations where its prey cannot.
The tapetum lucidum contributes to the superior night vision of some animals.
Many of these animals are nocturnal, especially carnivores that hunt their prey at night, while others are deep sea animals.
Although some primates have a tapetum lucidum, humans do not.
Walleyes are nocturnal, and feed at night because they have the ability to see in these low light conditions.
Pushing its prey against rocky walls, on beaches, or within a gulf area, with no way out except for back into hungry mouths is common.
Coming up on schools of bait fish congregated at the mouths of rivers, into canals, or discharges, feeding on whatever the current brings their way, is also common.
Many major structural changes in a small of area as possible makes for prime walleye feeding grounds.
The walleyes use this to their advantage, and they will always attack from the bottom/rear of an unsuspecting prey, and angle from which the prey never sees them coming.
Many times at night you will see walleye roll or splash on top of the water.
That is a good sign, because those are feeding walleyes.
As they attack prey near the surface of the water, they grab and roll with it.
Whenever you see walleye roll, you always run your lures within the top three feet of the water!
What's most important to understand is that you must run your lures above the walleye!
Second, is the tapetum lucidum, which is a layer of reflective pigment covering walleyes' eyes that intensifies any light the retina receives.
This provides the walleye with another advantage, it can see like a cat very well in low light situations where its prey cannot.
The tapetum lucidum contributes to the superior night vision of some animals.
Many of these animals are nocturnal, especially carnivores that hunt their prey at night, while others are deep sea animals.
Although some primates have a tapetum lucidum, humans do not.
Walleyes are nocturnal, and feed at night because they have the ability to see in these low light conditions.
Pushing its prey against rocky walls, on beaches, or within a gulf area, with no way out except for back into hungry mouths is common.
Coming up on schools of bait fish congregated at the mouths of rivers, into canals, or discharges, feeding on whatever the current brings their way, is also common.
Many major structural changes in a small of area as possible makes for prime walleye feeding grounds.
The more the better.
Seeing a long stretch of shoreline, mostly unchanged, will probably not be a good area to find them all the time!
It is very important to accept and understand that a fishing season will have its ups and downs, good and bad nights, throughout its duration.
You can learn how to catch fish when you're catching fish!
When you're out there one night and catch fish left and right, try something different.
Put another lure out that you don't favor, and also put another one out that you like and see what happens.
I guarantee, that the knowledge you will get from doing this and changing up lures will help you many times when the walleyes will not be so cooperative.
Through trial and error, learning experience, and know-how you will be able to become more consistent, and be able to catch walleyes even when the bite is tough.
The spring night season normally begins around the second week of April and lasts to mid to the end of June. After the walleye spawn, they stay close to shore where the bait fish is still more abundant.
This period is called the post-spawn, when the walleyes feed heavy to recuperate from the spawning.
The spring season will start any time during the first half of April, and this is when the big spawned out females are being caught. As the spring season progresses through May, you will begin to catch a mixed size of walleyes, and it can extend well into June, rarely even into July.
A good indicator in our area that the spring season is drawing to an end is when you begin to catch sheepshead while night trolling for walleyes.
Once this happens, within a few weeks the walleye will have gone out to deeper waters.
Towards evening, if the bait moves in, so will the walleye.
The fall night season normally begins mid to end of October and ends around Christmas. At times it can go as long as into January under the right conditions.
Some years, though more rare, the fall season can start as early as September or, it may not happen at all.
In the fall the walleyes follow the bait fish, and their main objective is to eat.
How the fall season turns out depends on whether or not the walleyes follow the bait fish all the way into shore.
If enough bait fish remain out in the open water so that the walleyes don't need to come in close to feed then the shore fishermen suffer.
The walleye eat to store and get fat for the winter months.
No, they do not go into hibernation during the winter, but because they are cold blooded animals, the very cold water slows them down considerably, making it more difficult for them to chase bait.
By mid December, after the walleye have eaten heavy for over a month, and in addition the eggs in the females, it is the best time of the year to catch a real monster, trophy walleye!
Seeing a long stretch of shoreline, mostly unchanged, will probably not be a good area to find them all the time!
It is very important to accept and understand that a fishing season will have its ups and downs, good and bad nights, throughout its duration.
You can learn how to catch fish when you're catching fish!
When you're out there one night and catch fish left and right, try something different.
Put another lure out that you don't favor, and also put another one out that you like and see what happens.
I guarantee, that the knowledge you will get from doing this and changing up lures will help you many times when the walleyes will not be so cooperative.
Through trial and error, learning experience, and know-how you will be able to become more consistent, and be able to catch walleyes even when the bite is tough.
The spring night season normally begins around the second week of April and lasts to mid to the end of June. After the walleye spawn, they stay close to shore where the bait fish is still more abundant.
This period is called the post-spawn, when the walleyes feed heavy to recuperate from the spawning.
The spring season will start any time during the first half of April, and this is when the big spawned out females are being caught. As the spring season progresses through May, you will begin to catch a mixed size of walleyes, and it can extend well into June, rarely even into July.
A good indicator in our area that the spring season is drawing to an end is when you begin to catch sheepshead while night trolling for walleyes.
Once this happens, within a few weeks the walleye will have gone out to deeper waters.
Towards evening, if the bait moves in, so will the walleye.
The fall night season normally begins mid to end of October and ends around Christmas. At times it can go as long as into January under the right conditions.
Some years, though more rare, the fall season can start as early as September or, it may not happen at all.
In the fall the walleyes follow the bait fish, and their main objective is to eat.
How the fall season turns out depends on whether or not the walleyes follow the bait fish all the way into shore.
If enough bait fish remain out in the open water so that the walleyes don't need to come in close to feed then the shore fishermen suffer.
The walleye eat to store and get fat for the winter months.
No, they do not go into hibernation during the winter, but because they are cold blooded animals, the very cold water slows them down considerably, making it more difficult for them to chase bait.
By mid December, after the walleye have eaten heavy for over a month, and in addition the eggs in the females, it is the best time of the year to catch a real monster, trophy walleye!
Methods
One, fun, inexpensive way to catch walleyes during these times is to cast from shore.
A good set up that works well is: 7' to 8' fast action rod, as light as possible. 2000 to 2500 size spinning reel, the reason being is that you can spool them up twice from a standard size spool of line you'd purchase from the store.
6 to 10 pound test mono filament fishing line, braided line works also yet you have to make sure your rod guides are strong enough so they don't get cut by it.
Best baits are the long-shaped shallow diving crank baits in floating and suspending versions. Rattle Trap style baits also work at times.
Same principles as mentioned above will work well on picking a prime location; break-walls, rock, piers, beaches, etc.
When you flat line, you let out as much line as you desire and you troll your lines straight behind the boat.
Remember, the depth your baits will run at depends on how much line you leave out, the more line you let out the deeper your baits will run. You can either hold the rods in your hand or place them in a rod holder; in this case the rod holders should be set more horizontal to the water line.
Flat-lining limits you to only two rods, one on each side of the boat, maybe three if you run one straight behind the back of the boat, but the more rods you run this way the more tangles you'll have.
I strongly recommend using no more than two rods.
This way of trolling can be very productive and most convenient when you fish alone.
The in-line boards spread the lines to the side and gives you the ability to run two, three, even four lines on each side of the boat.
At the beginning of April when walleye spring season gets on the way, the water temperature is in the 40's, at this time the optimal trolling speed is between 1.00 to 1.50 mph.
As the water temperature increases to high 40's to mid 50 degrees, the optimal trolling speed is 1.50 to 2.00 mph.
By the end of the season, when the water temperature gets in the 60's, trolling for walleyes will require trolling speeds of up to 2.50 mph, and at times slightly higher.
In the fall, By the end of October, the water temperature is again in the 60's, and you begin the fall walleye season with trolling speeds of about 2.00 mph.
Using the same rule of thumb, as the water temperature decreases, so will the optimal trolling speed.
When the walleye fall season extends into January when the water temperature is in the high 30's.
The trolling speed necessary to catch walleyes could be as slow as 0.50 mph.
Trolling speed is so important, that it could mean the difference between catching 20 to 30 walleyes a night or catching only two or three.
With this being said, the necessity of a trolling bag as part of your equipment is imperative.
Depending on the size of the boat and means of propulsion, trolling bags will be necessary to attain the slow trolling speeds required to catch walleyes.
6 to 10 pound test mono filament fishing line, braided line works also yet you have to make sure your rod guides are strong enough so they don't get cut by it.
Best baits are the long-shaped shallow diving crank baits in floating and suspending versions. Rattle Trap style baits also work at times.
Same principles as mentioned above will work well on picking a prime location; break-walls, rock, piers, beaches, etc.
Troll for them.
This can get as expensive as you let it, but it can be much more productive than casting from shore. Two ways to troll at night for walleyes
One way to troll at night is flat-lining. When you flat line, you let out as much line as you desire and you troll your lines straight behind the boat.
Remember, the depth your baits will run at depends on how much line you leave out, the more line you let out the deeper your baits will run. You can either hold the rods in your hand or place them in a rod holder; in this case the rod holders should be set more horizontal to the water line.
Flat-lining limits you to only two rods, one on each side of the boat, maybe three if you run one straight behind the back of the boat, but the more rods you run this way the more tangles you'll have.
I strongly recommend using no more than two rods.
This way of trolling can be very productive and most convenient when you fish alone.
Sometimes less is more.
Second way to troll at night is to use in-line boards. The in-line boards spread the lines to the side and gives you the ability to run two, three, even four lines on each side of the boat.
Speed and Trolling Bags
Speed is so crucial when trolling at night for walleyes that going just 0.2 mph too fast or too slow will mean the difference between catching fish or not, and it is relevant to water temperature.At the beginning of April when walleye spring season gets on the way, the water temperature is in the 40's, at this time the optimal trolling speed is between 1.00 to 1.50 mph.
As the water temperature increases to high 40's to mid 50 degrees, the optimal trolling speed is 1.50 to 2.00 mph.
By the end of the season, when the water temperature gets in the 60's, trolling for walleyes will require trolling speeds of up to 2.50 mph, and at times slightly higher.
In the fall, By the end of October, the water temperature is again in the 60's, and you begin the fall walleye season with trolling speeds of about 2.00 mph.
Using the same rule of thumb, as the water temperature decreases, so will the optimal trolling speed.
When the walleye fall season extends into January when the water temperature is in the high 30's.
The trolling speed necessary to catch walleyes could be as slow as 0.50 mph.
Trolling speed is so important, that it could mean the difference between catching 20 to 30 walleyes a night or catching only two or three.
With this being said, the necessity of a trolling bag as part of your equipment is imperative.
Depending on the size of the boat and means of propulsion, trolling bags will be necessary to attain the slow trolling speeds required to catch walleyes.
Run the trolling bag along the side of the boat.
Attach a rope from the rear of the trolling bag to the rear boat cleat and from the front straps to the medial boat cleat.
Size the ropes so the bag runs completely submerged just under the water surface, about half way between the two cleats, and not too snug against the boat.
Pay attention to the rear rope so is not two short causing the tail end of the trolling bag to be pulled upward, better off slightly longer than shorter, for this will tend to empty the trolling bag.
Attach both ropes to the cleats before putting the trolling bag in the water.
Lift the bag out of the water by the rear rope to remove from the water.
Trolling bags can also assist in boat handling and control.
For smaller boats it can help with the rocking, it can also help the boat to stay straighter.
Size the ropes so the bag runs completely submerged just under the water surface, about half way between the two cleats, and not too snug against the boat.
Pay attention to the rear rope so is not two short causing the tail end of the trolling bag to be pulled upward, better off slightly longer than shorter, for this will tend to empty the trolling bag.
Attach both ropes to the cleats before putting the trolling bag in the water.
Lift the bag out of the water by the rear rope to remove from the water.
Trolling bags can also assist in boat handling and control.
For smaller boats it can help with the rocking, it can also help the boat to stay straighter.
In windy conditions, using the bags allows you to speed up your motor while still maintaining the desired speed, giving you more torque needed to steer the boat against the wind.
Trolling bags come in several sizes, length wise, from 18" to 36" in different increments depending on manufacturer.
Rule of thumb to figure out the proper size trolling bag for the boat is to consider 1" of trolling bag length for every 1' of boat length.
When an exact match cannot be obtain, better to go larger than smaller, for a 22' boat get a 24" trolling bag instead of a 20" bag.
Trolling bags come in several sizes, length wise, from 18" to 36" in different increments depending on manufacturer.
Rule of thumb to figure out the proper size trolling bag for the boat is to consider 1" of trolling bag length for every 1' of boat length.
When an exact match cannot be obtain, better to go larger than smaller, for a 22' boat get a 24" trolling bag instead of a 20" bag.
Here is where to get the best trolling bag on the market:
The Weapons
When it comes to choosing the right crank baits, the best choice is the longer shape style crank baits. There are many crank bait manufactures, some real good and some worthless.
Color of the lure used plays a very important role! YES, COLOR IS VERY IMPORTANT at night! Some people don't think so but I do for sure.
Color of the lure used plays a very important role! YES, COLOR IS VERY IMPORTANT at night! Some people don't think so but I do for sure.
There are many theories on how to choose the right color according to certain conditions.
Although the concepts are logical and many times they do work, I've had it many times when the opposite held true.
Yes, color is important, but it is useless on its own.
To be successful one has to consider and take into account other important factors, like:
1-location (you can't catch fish that are not there)
2-trolling speed
3-running depth
4-water condition
5-bait (size, shape, sheen, flash not just color, color)
6-trolling direction
7-currents (correlation between ground speed and water speed).
I've listed these factors in "order of importance", not to say that one is much more important than the other, to emphasize an order of thinking that can be used when planning and working with a trolling program.
The more consideration you give to all the factors, the more successful you'll be at it!
Shallow diving crank baits are the best choice for this type of fishing.
Some can dive up to 8-9 feet depending on how much line you leave out.
Most of the time you want to run your baits no more than 5 feet deep at most, and as shallow as within one foot from the surface.
You'll see the walleye roll with your bait as it takes it!
2. Suspending - the crank will slowly sink to a certain depth, 2 to 5 feet depending on the make, then just suspend in the water column.
3. Floating - the crank will float to the surface of the water. It is very important to know what type of crank you have and want to use! The floating and suspending types are the two to consider when trolling, and the choice is dependent on the water temperature.
A floating crank floats on top of the water; it needs to be pulled at a certain speed so it will "dig in", "work", and "swim" through the water.
Pulled too slow, it will only flop and float on top without much effect.
When the water is warm enough that a "good" trolling speed is about 1.5 mph and higher, a floater is the ideal choice.
When fishing cooler water, with trolling speeds below 1.5 mph, then the better choice would be a suspending lure.
A suspending crank suspends within the water column, and does not need to be pulled for it to be effective.As it suspends, it mimics a bait fish suspended in the water, as they often are.
The colder the water, the less a walleye will chase a bait, a slow moving, suspending bait fish will be a prime target for them.
Many times when fishing cold water from the rocks, the best way to trigger a strike would be to cast a suspending crank, then just leave it suspend with just enough tension in the line to feel the 'bump", not even reeling in.
You can turn a good floating crank into a good suspending one by attaching small split-ring weights to the hook shaft. Doing it yourself this way, gives you the ability to control how deep and which way your lure will suspend.
The other factor was how to get the baits to stand out from all the other bait fish that are everywhere.
They will not chase the bait as much from further distances.
Different manufactures have different suspending depths for their lures, and some are made to suspend heads-up, or heads-down.
Unfortunately, if you take several of the exact same suspending lure by the same manufacturer and put them in a bucket of water, you'll be in for an unpleasant surprise!
Not all will suspend the same, and some will actually float to the to
These again are more factors to consider, and yes they are important enough to make a difference at one time or another.
The more you are in control and know exactly what your lures are doing, the more you can use these factors to your advantage.
Count downs are used for casting, and not used for trolling.
Deep diving crank baits are used when targeting deeper fish in the daytime, some can dive up to more then 25 feet and rarely used for night trolling.
They can be used to a certain extent with real good results.
One way is to use them is with a very short lead (amount of line left out, to obtain a certain running depth) behind the board.
As short as 7 feet and no more than 25 feet.
Another way to use them with great results is to flat-line off the side of the boat.
Take the rod holder that's furthest towards the rear of the boat, set it down horizontal to the water line, leave out 25 feet of line with a deep diver, set it in the rod holder, loosen the drag because it will catch fish.
Setting it this way should not get in the way of your in-line boards as you reel in fish.
How to target and pinpoint what works
Once you chose a location, and your fish finder shows fish, you're ready to put together a plan.
Although the concepts are logical and many times they do work, I've had it many times when the opposite held true.
Yes, color is important, but it is useless on its own.
To be successful one has to consider and take into account other important factors, like:
1-location (you can't catch fish that are not there)
2-trolling speed
3-running depth
4-water condition
5-bait (size, shape, sheen, flash not just color, color)
6-trolling direction
7-currents (correlation between ground speed and water speed).
I've listed these factors in "order of importance", not to say that one is much more important than the other, to emphasize an order of thinking that can be used when planning and working with a trolling program.
The more consideration you give to all the factors, the more successful you'll be at it!
Shallow diving crank baits are the best choice for this type of fishing.
Some can dive up to 8-9 feet depending on how much line you leave out.
Most of the time you want to run your baits no more than 5 feet deep at most, and as shallow as within one foot from the surface.
You'll see the walleye roll with your bait as it takes it!
These shallow diving cranks come in three different styles:
More about Cranks in my Crank Tutorial page.
1. Count Downs - The crank will slowly sink all the way to the bottom, 2. Suspending - the crank will slowly sink to a certain depth, 2 to 5 feet depending on the make, then just suspend in the water column.
3. Floating - the crank will float to the surface of the water. It is very important to know what type of crank you have and want to use! The floating and suspending types are the two to consider when trolling, and the choice is dependent on the water temperature.
A floating crank floats on top of the water; it needs to be pulled at a certain speed so it will "dig in", "work", and "swim" through the water.
Pulled too slow, it will only flop and float on top without much effect.
When the water is warm enough that a "good" trolling speed is about 1.5 mph and higher, a floater is the ideal choice.
When fishing cooler water, with trolling speeds below 1.5 mph, then the better choice would be a suspending lure.
A suspending crank suspends within the water column, and does not need to be pulled for it to be effective.As it suspends, it mimics a bait fish suspended in the water, as they often are.
The colder the water, the less a walleye will chase a bait, a slow moving, suspending bait fish will be a prime target for them.
Many times when fishing cold water from the rocks, the best way to trigger a strike would be to cast a suspending crank, then just leave it suspend with just enough tension in the line to feel the 'bump", not even reeling in.
You can turn a good floating crank into a good suspending one by attaching small split-ring weights to the hook shaft. Doing it yourself this way, gives you the ability to control how deep and which way your lure will suspend.
Choice of style for nite:
Preference of the walleye to eat smelt instead of the shad. Yes, they eat shad but seem to like the longer slender baits are better. The other factor was how to get the baits to stand out from all the other bait fish that are everywhere.
Actions and Color:
As the season progresses the water gets cooler.
With the cooler water the actions of the fish slow down.They will not chase the bait as much from further distances.
Different manufactures have different suspending depths for their lures, and some are made to suspend heads-up, or heads-down.
Unfortunately, if you take several of the exact same suspending lure by the same manufacturer and put them in a bucket of water, you'll be in for an unpleasant surprise!
Not all will suspend the same, and some will actually float to the to
These again are more factors to consider, and yes they are important enough to make a difference at one time or another.
The more you are in control and know exactly what your lures are doing, the more you can use these factors to your advantage.
Count downs are used for casting, and not used for trolling.
Deep diving crank baits are used when targeting deeper fish in the daytime, some can dive up to more then 25 feet and rarely used for night trolling.
They can be used to a certain extent with real good results.
One way is to use them is with a very short lead (amount of line left out, to obtain a certain running depth) behind the board.
As short as 7 feet and no more than 25 feet.
Another way to use them with great results is to flat-line off the side of the boat.
Take the rod holder that's furthest towards the rear of the boat, set it down horizontal to the water line, leave out 25 feet of line with a deep diver, set it in the rod holder, loosen the drag because it will catch fish.
Setting it this way should not get in the way of your in-line boards as you reel in fish.
How to target and pinpoint what works
Once you chose a location, and your fish finder shows fish, you're ready to put together a plan.
This is the time to take into consideration all the information available to you:
water temperature
water color
existing structures
Decide on an area to fish
color and type of baits to use
Starting Troll speed
"Precision Trolling" This is a must have book that gives you the dive curves for many of the crank baits, shallow and deep divers. water color
existing structures
Decide on an area to fish
color and type of baits to use
Starting Troll speed
10 pound diameter line is mainly used to gauge the running depth of the lure, so you'll have to run lines close to that diameter.
A 25 pound diameter line will vary greatly in comparison to the books charts.
Some people use 30 pound braid with 10 pound diameter for that same reason.
The book can be found at many tackle shops, and is a very valuable tool.
As mentioned before, the depth your lure will run at depends on how much line you leave out, more line means deeper.
I would run 6 foot mono leaders if I were to use braided line.
Again though, I run Monofilament for planer board applications.
Find out why Monofilament, and more about Cranks in the Crank Tutorial.
When doing this type of fishing, you will want to run your baits no more than 5 feet deep.
This means that you will not need more then 40-50 feet of line out with most of the cranks used.
Many times the fish will feed within one foot of water, and if you run your baits at 2 feet deep, you might not catch a whole lot if any, it is that important.
It is also important to understand that it makes a big difference between running at 15 feet back or 25 feet back, and that difference can mean catching or not.
In-line trolling boards attach to each one of your lines. They take the lines to the side of the boat making it possible to run more lines and cover more water with this wide spread. When night trolling, it is possible to run 4 lines on each side, plus the two flat lines with the deep divers depending on your boat and how you are set up.
This is possible because of the shorter leads
(amount of line from the board to the lure) you need to run, less than 50 feet and many times 10 or 15 feet.
The shorter the leads, the easier it is to run more lines.
Part of the problem here is that most of the in-lines are designed to stay on the line when you have a fish on, some use a flag system that drops when you have a fish on, but most time you can tell there's a fish on because the board will "drop back".
This means that if you have other lines with boards in the water, between the rod with the fish and the boat, you'll have to work the board with the fish back and around the inside boards, and once the fish gets behind the boat you reel in till the board gets to the boat, remove the board, the bring in the fish.
This can be difficult when running leads more than 50 feet long, as is when day fishing with deep divers and 150 feet leads.
The shorter the leads, the easier it is to run more lines.
Part of the problem here is that most of the in-lines are designed to stay on the line when you have a fish on, some use a flag system that drops when you have a fish on, but most time you can tell there's a fish on because the board will "drop back".
This means that if you have other lines with boards in the water, between the rod with the fish and the boat, you'll have to work the board with the fish back and around the inside boards, and once the fish gets behind the boat you reel in till the board gets to the boat, remove the board, the bring in the fish.
This can be difficult when running leads more than 50 feet long, as is when day fishing with deep divers and 150 feet leads.
Just a little on boards
I personally recommend the Church tx-22 or the OffShore inline boards.
The new TX-22 sets upright without forward motion which gives it the ability to troll extremely slow without restricting performance at higher speeds and pulls harder to the side. The OffShores offer some other benefits. Try some ones and then decide which pleases you best.
Flouresecent red flag is included makes the board easy to see and folds down when not in use for easy storage.
It is reversible and can be used on either side of the boat.
Simple to assemble and simple to use.
The new TX-22 sets upright without forward motion which gives it the ability to troll extremely slow without restricting performance at higher speeds and pulls harder to the side. The OffShores offer some other benefits. Try some ones and then decide which pleases you best.
Flouresecent red flag is included makes the board easy to see and folds down when not in use for easy storage.
It is reversible and can be used on either side of the boat.
Simple to assemble and simple to use.
Adjustable clip holds new superlines yet releases with one hand .
Great in cold weather and easy on the fingers not like some other boards.
Every manufacturer has some type of a clip for the front attachment; the difference is in the rear type of attaching the line.
There are many ways to rig your in line boards to your satisfaction.
You can use snap weights and deep divers off these boards.
That would be a whole new tutorial some time.
One thing to watch for are boards that have clips for both front and rear.
I've seen many lose their boards when a fish was on because both clips released before the board made it to the boat.
A way to fix this problem is to add a snap swivel to the ring the rear clip is attached to or replace the clip with the swivel.
Attach the snap swivel to the line, with or without the rear clip, this will eliminate loosing the board but it can make it more difficult in removing it.
Many manufactures are redesigning their boards so the front clips will release the line when a fish is on, and use rear snap swivels instead of clips.
You can change your front clips to release clips for the same reason.
Great in cold weather and easy on the fingers not like some other boards.
Every manufacturer has some type of a clip for the front attachment; the difference is in the rear type of attaching the line.
There are many ways to rig your in line boards to your satisfaction.
You can use snap weights and deep divers off these boards.
That would be a whole new tutorial some time.
One thing to watch for are boards that have clips for both front and rear.
I've seen many lose their boards when a fish was on because both clips released before the board made it to the boat.
A way to fix this problem is to add a snap swivel to the ring the rear clip is attached to or replace the clip with the swivel.
Attach the snap swivel to the line, with or without the rear clip, this will eliminate loosing the board but it can make it more difficult in removing it.
Many manufactures are redesigning their boards so the front clips will release the line when a fish is on, and use rear snap swivels instead of clips.
You can change your front clips to release clips for the same reason.
Some people make their boards to snap and slide.
In this case, when a fish hits, the front clip releases and the board slides down the line. This allows the fish to "drag" back quicker and it makes it easier to work it back and around the inside boards. When using this type of board it is a good idea to add a 1/4" bead on your line before your end swivel snap.
This will stop the board from sliding down to the fish and knocking it off.
In this case, when a fish hits, the front clip releases and the board slides down the line. This allows the fish to "drag" back quicker and it makes it easier to work it back and around the inside boards. When using this type of board it is a good idea to add a 1/4" bead on your line before your end swivel snap.
This will stop the board from sliding down to the fish and knocking it off.
Lighting the in-line boards.
There is nothing like watching that light stick take off for the back of the boat when one of those pigs grabs that crank and then see the light stick take off like a giant bobber.
One important thing to remember is to use a light that is visible all around, 360 degrees.
One important thing to remember is to use a light that is visible all around, 360 degrees.
Many times there will be others fishing around you.
They will need to see your boards as much as you, tangling boards with others is nothing fun!
Many manufactures make their own lights, avoid the ones not visible all around, that are too heavy or that mount to high from the boards.
This will raise the center of gravity of the boards and cause them to tilt.
You can use regular or battery operated glow sticks. They can be turned on and off which will extend the time of use making it very cost effective. Strap them flat, on top of the board with heavy duty rubber bands
They will need to see your boards as much as you, tangling boards with others is nothing fun!
Many manufactures make their own lights, avoid the ones not visible all around, that are too heavy or that mount to high from the boards.
This will raise the center of gravity of the boards and cause them to tilt.
You can use regular or battery operated glow sticks. They can be turned on and off which will extend the time of use making it very cost effective. Strap them flat, on top of the board with heavy duty rubber bands
(check and change the rubber bands often).
Best colors are green and red, much easier to see.
At all times say to your self, Where am I?
Good GPS and compass skills are critical.
LED minimize the glare in night vision.
Match the hatch, use baits that resemble the current feed.
Do not run your tattle flags, keep anything that sticks up off the boards at night.
You will have less tangles.
Keep a close eye on the height of your fish so you do not run baits underneath them.
If your stern light blinds you, put a cardboard cup over it like a lampshade.
Do not go out at night if it's rough.
If it gets rough and your in a small boat GO IN.
You must keep it as simple as possible.
Don't bring 5 rods when you can only fish with 2 and the others are lying in the boat.
Only bring limited tackle, there's no need to bring everything you own.
Always use common courtesy when on the water.
Bring an extra set of clothes and keep in the car.
No need to be afraid, just be prepared. Never panic.
FishCrazy Walleye Derby registrants who puts "place of register"= Fishers of Men, receive charter discounts.
Derby registrants fishing the derby that register through Fishers of Men are 15.00 an hour/person night trips, 12.50 hour days.
See the Derby Page.
FOM Pro-Tips
I like my boards fixed stationary.At all times say to your self, Where am I?
Good GPS and compass skills are critical.
LED minimize the glare in night vision.
Match the hatch, use baits that resemble the current feed.
Do not run your tattle flags, keep anything that sticks up off the boards at night.
You will have less tangles.
Keep a close eye on the height of your fish so you do not run baits underneath them.
If your stern light blinds you, put a cardboard cup over it like a lampshade.
Do not go out at night if it's rough.
If it gets rough and your in a small boat GO IN.
You must keep it as simple as possible.
Don't bring 5 rods when you can only fish with 2 and the others are lying in the boat.
Only bring limited tackle, there's no need to bring everything you own.
Always use common courtesy when on the water.
Bring an extra set of clothes and keep in the car.
No need to be afraid, just be prepared. Never panic.
I hope this tutorial helped and you enjoyed the read.
The night bite is greatest thing ever.
Do your homework, don't go when the weather sucks, don't skimp on any equipment, be respectful of others and its the most fun you will ever have.The night bite is greatest thing ever.
Check the "Specials page regularly.
If you have any questions feel free to ask.
If you have any questions feel free to ask.
Night trips are for 1-3 persons for more room and more fun for everyone and all our safety.
Day trips are up to 6 persons.
April, May, June, Vermilion
July, Aug, Sept, Cleveland to Ashtabula
October-November-December, Cleveland
Day trips are up to 6 persons.
April, May, June, Vermilion
July, Aug, Sept, Cleveland to Ashtabula
October-November-December, Cleveland
FishCrazy Walleye Derby registrants who puts "place of register"= Fishers of Men, receive charter discounts.
Derby registrants fishing the derby that register through Fishers of Men are 15.00 an hour/person night trips, 12.50 hour days.
See the Derby Page.
Non Derby registrants, regular rates apply
Twilight/ Trip Up to 3 persons, 100.00 hr, 4 hour minimum.
We can make up the trip if there is only one or 2 persons.
SPECIAL TRIPS ARRANGED TO YOUR HOURS.
More Fishermen? We can arrange a multi-boat fishing charter.
More Fishermen? We can arrange a multi-boat fishing charter.
You will need to bring:
Ohio fishing license (required), Food and Beverage, Jacket, Hat, headlamp, gloves, rain gear, soft soled shoes, prescription Medication, motion sickness pills, camera and LARGE cooler (to take fish home).
Required deposit $100 Due within ten days of booking.
Required deposit $100 Due within ten days of booking.
Deposits are refunded or trips rebooked if trip is cancelled due to poor weather conditions, based on Captains judgment.
If you cancel, notice must be received 30 days prior to fishing date or deposit is forfeited. Prime fishing dates are valuable, so book your Lake Erie fishing trip early!
WIN FREE TRIPS!!!
Check regularly on the website for specials and discounts.
Fish cleaning available
Mail Deposit or Payment To:
Captain Aaron Burnett
3854 State Route 303
Ravenna, Ohio 44266
Phone: 330-577-6871
Pay-Pal with Credit Cards.
Pay-Pal account:
This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it
Mates work for tips. Standard gratuity is 20%.
Not responsible for lost, broken or stolen items.
Mail Deposit or Payment To:
Captain Aaron Burnett
3854 State Route 303
Ravenna, Ohio 44266
Phone: 330-577-6871
Pay-Pal with Credit Cards.
Pay-Pal account:
This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it
Mates work for tips. Standard gratuity is 20%.
Not responsible for lost, broken or stolen items.
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